Latvia—a small country nestled between Lithuania and Estonia—captivated me with its blend of medieval charm and natural beauty. The old town of Riga, the capital, instantly reminded me of Antwerp, with its medieval buildings lining the banks of the Daugava River and the striking contrast of a modern railway station nearby.
Sigulda, however, was a different story altogether. This ridiculously beautiful castle town sprawls along the Gauja River, and the cable car ride over the Gauja Valley is an absolute must for anyone visiting Latvia.
I arrived in Riga by bus from Klaipeda, a journey of about four hours. It was raining when I reached, and since my Airbnb check-in was only after 6 pm, I had to store my luggage at the bus station. By the time I sorted that out and found a store to buy a SIM card (the one from Lithuania didn’t work in Latvia), it was nearly 2 pm. With the rain still coming down, I ducked into a market opposite the bus station—a fascinating place divided into sections for meat, vegetables, clothes, souvenirs, and cozy coffee shops. The variety of food and local produce was impressive, and it’s definitely a spot to visit if you want to experience where locals shop.
When the rain stopped, I explored Riga’s old town, just a five-minute walk from the bus station. The vibe was strikingly similar to Antwerp: cobbled streets, charming squares, and riverside views. With just a few hours in Riga, I visited the city’s highlights: the Three Brothers, Freedom Monument, Riga Cathedral, and Town Hall Square. The old town is compact and walkable, so you can see the main sights in three to four hours. The most beautiful part, for me, was Bastejkalna Park, right opposite the Freedom Monument. This tranquil park, with its canal, walkways, and fountains, was the perfect place to relax after a chilly, rainy day.
The next day, I stored my luggage at the Riga railway station and took the train to Sigulda—just about an hour away. The moment I stepped out of the station, I was struck by how green and spread out the town was. The scenic 20-minute stroll to Sigulda Castle was a highlight, though one of the two castles in the complex was closed for renovation. From the back of the castle, the view over the Gauja Valley was simply majestic.
A must-do in the Gauja Valley and National Park is the cable car ride to Krimulda village on the other side of the valley. There are several trails through the forest and valley, and when I reached Krimulda, I found myself completely alone. I chose the trail from Krimulda Castle to Gutman and Devil’s Caves, down to the Gauja River and bridge, up to Devil’s Cliff, and back to Sigulda—a four-hour walk through serene wilderness. It was a bit unnerving to be alone, especially when I saw a snake cross my path near the river—my first time seeing one in the wild! Still, the valley’s beauty made the experience unforgettable, and the reliable internet meant I never got lost, which is rare for my solo hikes. I was relieved to return to civilization in Sigulda, where I treated myself to delicious pancakes and coffee at a local eatery across from the station before heading back to Riga for my bus to Tallinn.
I wish I’d had more time in Latvia—Sigulda and the Gauja Valley are truly fascinating, and one day is simply not enough to do them justice