Continuing my journey to discover India one state at a time, I spent three days exploring Modhera, Patan, Somnath, and Dwarka in Gujarat.
I’m not a very religious person; what draws me to ancient temples is their architecture and history. These places were a revelation. I had seen pictures of Modhera and the stepwells of Gujarat, but nothing prepared me for the jaw-dropping architecture and artistry. While they are essentially stepwells, the carvings and attention to detail are mind-boggling. You could easily spend an entire day admiring just one panel. Built in the 10th century, these stepwells remain remarkably intact.
The Modhera Sun Temple was another revelation. The symmetry of the steps in the ‘kund,’ the majestic pillars, and the open-air theatre are simply stunning. The idol of the Sun (broken by Islamic invaders) once had a diamond on its forehead. During the equinox, the sun’s rays would reflect off the diamond and illuminate the entire temple—a marvel of 10th-century ingenuity!
Somnath, in Veraval, is a major center for boat-building along a scenic coastline, with the Somnath temple sitting majestically by the sea. There’s a pole here marking that from this point to the South Pole, there is only sea and no land in between. The temple’s history is heart-wrenching—it was plundered repeatedly by invaders. Watching the sound and light show as the sun set was an unforgettable experience. It made me realize how the destruction of places of worship, books, and libraries leads to the loss of entire histories, cultures, and civilizations.
Dwarka is a sight to behold—not just for the loving way Krishna is revered (I witnessed the adorable ritual of showing the idol a mirror after the alankaar in the Dwarkadhish temple), but also for the breathtaking confluence of the Gomti river and the sea, the waves crashing on the temples, and the peaceful environs of the Gita temple where Krishna is believed to have left His body.
This trip completes my exploration of Gujarat. Bhuj and Saurashtra—parts of one state, yet each so different.
This year, I decided to travel and explore more of our beautiful country, starting with my neighbor—Gujarat.
Kutch was a revelation in itself. From the resilient spirit of the people of Bhuj, who rebuilt their city from scratch after the devastating earthquake, to the serene sunset at Dorda in the Rann of Kutch, to the 3,000-year-old Shiva temple by the sea at Koteshwar, to the once-prosperous but now ruined walled town of Lakhpat, and the 5,000-year-old mystery that is Dholavira—Kutch was an experience like no other. Three days of varied sights and experiences: the eerie salt desert and the magnificent civilization of Dholavira. What a district.
Gujarat, with its rich history, stunning architecture, and resilient people, left me with memories and reflections I’ll cherish forever.